Skincare expert answers the most common questions about acne: finger points at hormones

Adult acne is becoming more and more common, and it’s not unusual for people to continue experiencing breakouts well into their 30s, 40s and even 50s. l SUPPLIED

Adult acne is becoming more and more common, and it’s not unusual for people to continue experiencing breakouts well into their 30s, 40s and even 50s. l SUPPLIED

Published Mar 28, 2024

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We've all been there – just when you thought you had left the awkward teenage years behind, adulthood decides to gift you with a surprise package: acne!

From unexpected zits to stubborn blemishes, your skin is staging a rebellion, and it's time to uncover the reasons behind this unexpected skincare saga.

Adult acne is becoming more and more common, and it’s not unusual for people to continue experiencing breakouts well into their 30s, 40s and even 50s.

The reason? There are many. From hormones to lifestyle to hygiene and stress, each person’s acne journey is unique.

Whether you experience the odd breakout or you’re battling full-on acne, pimples have a way of knocking one’s self-esteem and putting a damper on day-to-day life.

The more you know, the better you’ll be equipped to deal with them – no matter how stubborn they may seem. l JOHN TEKERIDIS/PEXELS

The best way to overcome breakouts begins with education. The more you know, the better you’ll be equipped to deal with them – no matter how stubborn they may seem.

Karen Bester, a medical trainer at Lamelle Research Laboratories, answers the most common questions about acne and breakouts:

I'm no longer a teenager but I'm suddenly experiencing breakouts again. Why is this happening to me as an adult?

We all assume that the only time you should get breakouts is when you are in your teens. Even though this is the one time that your body is going through a massive amount of hormonal change, this is not the only time that it happens.

Breakouts indicate a change in hormones and we have a few phases in our life when this happens.

Breakouts indicate a change in hormones and we have a few phases in our life when this happens. l SUPPLIED

What is the difference between breakouts and acne?

The odd pimple can be caused by changing environments, stress, an area of clogged pores or maybe after a peel or resurfacing treatments that create change in your skin. There would be no irregularity about a breakout.

Acne is a chronic condition that is driven by hormones and probably has a link to your genetics.

It will worsen with stress and hormonal change. It can also vary from very light to full inflammatory cystic acne.

Can my diet lead to breakouts?

“That is an interesting question.”

Bester weighed in on the age-old debate about whether diet plays a role in acne, and the verdict might surprise you.

According to Bester, there is no solid evidence proving a direct link between diet and acne or the exacerbation of breakouts.

Bester pointed out: "If there were a strong link, then there would be populations that don’t have acne where these foods might be excluded from their diets. No population is excluded from acne and breakouts."

Can wearing make-up cause breakouts?

Make-up itself doesn't cause breakouts. However, not removing make-up and sleeping with thick layers on your skin might lead to breakouts. This can vary from person to person.

Acne is not caused by make-up but rather by hormone fluctuations and genetic predisposition.

What type of skincare ingredients and products should I be using to clear blemishes and prevent new ones from forming?

For the odd pimple, we love salicylic acid, azelaic acid and niacinamide. These could be included in a cleanser or spot treatment or moisturiser.

Add a Retinoic acid ester to that if you have acne, generally used at night in a moisturising cream or additional serum used with moisturisers.

What should (and shouldn't) I do when I notice a new pimple appearing?

Keep calm. Don’t fiddle.

We always advise using spot treatment that contains ingredients that calm inflammation, kill bacteria in the pore and remove any blockage of the pore.

How can I maintain an anti-ageing routine while managing breakouts?

When you use products containing Retinoic acid, like our Clarity PM Plus and RA Correctives, you're not only managing breakouts but also adding a powerful ingredient for preventing ageing.

Retinoic acid boosts skin turnover and shedding in the top layers, keeping your skin younger and healthy. It also removes elastosis and, when used for over 10 months, can significantly increase collagen production.

Niacinamide is also anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing, helping our skin create a healthy lipid bi-layer, which is crucial for preventing and correcting signs of ageing.

Nobiletin is another interesting ingredient. In Dermaheal, we use it to stop genetic triggers that cause chronic inflammation, a key factor in skin ageing.

In Clarity, it decreases the size of enlarged sebaceous glands in acne and makes sebum less sticky.

Are there any lifestyle habits that can lessen my breakouts?

There is definitely a lot to be said for keeping skin clean and healthy. This is done by cleansing and moisturising the skin twice a day with the correct products for your skin. If you do notice a lifestyle habit that is affecting your skin health, try to avoid it.

Don’t pick at your skin or pimples and avoid touching your skin too much as our hands do tend to be dirtier.

If you tend to get breakouts around your hairline, wash your hair regularly. The scalp tends to be oilier at the hair follicles.