The Elie Saab spring-summer 2023 Haute Couture collection exudes royalty and opulence.
Grand silhouettes of cape coats and embroidered dresses fill the collection, giving way to an illusion of a golden dawn. Quite frankly, it’s a collection that’s made for red carpets and grand ballrooms. There’s nothing about it that’s basic. But when do Lebanese designers ever create basic pieces?
“We are a big machine and our studio of Haute Couture started to work on the collection six months ago. It represents the beauty of Thailand,” Elie Saab told Euronews Culture. Saab may not come off as passionate but serious, but when you enter his presence you see he’s very passionate about what he does.
The quality and opulence of his collection, along with the reputation of his maison wouldn’t be at the level it has reached without passion. And it’s this passion coupled with wanting to make a woman feel beautiful through dress that drives him. If you were to ask a Western woman to name a Lebanese designer, Elie Saab would undoubtedly be the first, and possibly the only name of their lips.
There has to be a secret to his sauce of keeping the Elie Saab name internationally relevant. But, his answer is simple and it goes back to his passion: “Since day one I have presented beautiful clothes and women like to be beautiful. All my life I have kept this in mind, to simply make beautiful clothes for women,” Saab giggles from behind his sunglasses.
A one-of-a-kind designer, Elie Saab has been perfecting craftsmanship couture for more than forty years.
Emerging in 2002, he was propelled on on the world stage when American actress Halle Berry wore one of his gowns to the Academy Awards, where she won the Best Actress Oscar for Monster’s Ball.
He's since blazed a trail for Lebanese designers to follow in his path. Ever humbled, perhaps too humble if there is a thing, Saab patiently stated backstage to greet those eager to meet him after the show.
Royal relation
Completely inspired by the kingdom of Thailand, Saab was moved by its rich culture and splendour, of its natural scenes and rituals, describing the collection as "an indulgent escape from the ordinary."
Staying mostly in a taupe rose gold colour palette, the looks radiate and sparkle with, “shimmering rhinestones and crystals that weave into delicate metallic tresses,” noted the Maison. “We used a lot of fabric in the collection. Satin is very present and personally, light fabric like tulle and lace that give volume and character to the dresses.”
A collection complete with sixty-nine looks, gowns include pearls and crystals, which are paired with Asian images like the naga dragon, crystal rose lotus flowers, and koi fish. Asymmetrical bodices and plunging sweetheart necklines give a romantic feel to this very cultural collection.
The Maison has created collections based on faraway places, but this season it was all about the elevated regal essence of Thai culture. Post show people were clamouring to greet Saab, to get a photo and let him know their thoughts on the collection. As he patiently stood, saying hello to almost everyone, it’s clear his passion for fashion and for life will ensure he remains a beloved haute couture master around the world.